Gamboa and the Pipeline Road
Every now and then I like to drive out to Gamboa, a relatively small enclave of the old canal zone located where the Chagres River hits the Panama Canal. The Spanish hauled gold from Peru over the Camino Cruces to a point on the other side of the river near Gamboa where it was then taken down the river, into the Atlantic Ocean, and eventually to Portobello. Gamboa is tucked up into the jungle, which regularly spills the birds and animals into the clean-cut world of man. Scientists from around the world flock to Gamboa to study the birds and animals along the Pipeline Road where birdwatchers have set world records for numbers and variety. You can watch the passing ships in canal transit, and at this point they are usually making the best speed they can get away with and not just inching along like they are near the locks. Gamboa is also a favorite launch point for fishing trips to Gatun lake and the site of the Gamboa Rianforest Resort. My photo essay of the area follows...dkw. First of all, where is Gamboa? Gamboa is located relatively close to Panama City, exactly 16 miles as the bird flies from Paitilla. The driving distance is about 20 miles on the road depending on the route you take to get there. And time-wise it takes about 30-40 minutes depending on traffic. Here's a photo-map to provide an overview and spacial orientation.
Driving Directions: From the front entrance to Fort Clayton near the Miraflores locks, continue straight towards Paraiso and the Pedro Miguel locks. After Paraiso you will continue past the interchange for the Centennial Bridge and the Summit Golf Course on your right. Just past the golf course you will pass under an old railroad bridge. Take the next left past the bridge and go straight. You can't miss it from there.
You will pass the Summit Zoo, the road that goes to the old Air Force radar site (now a hotel), a trail head to hike to a waterfall, the "Renacer" prison, and the ACP boat ramp on your right. After all of that you will reach a single-lane bridge. Wait for the green light and proceed across.
Welcome to Gamboa. Drive around and check the place out. Just please respect private property and restricted access areas for the Panama Canal. People are usually very friendly and willing to strike up a conversation.
This house is typical for Gamboa. Concrete foundation, duplex, zinc roof, wood structure, parking underneath. The houses in the area range from completely abandoned and run down to freshly reconstructed. I met one guy who had purchased an empty lot and built a new house to the exact specifications as the existing buildings in the area.
Another typical aspect of Gamboa - the road ends and the jungle begins. If you want to have a solid wall of green as a backyard, you can do it in Gamboa. This area was probably clean-cut during the construction of the canal but the jungle has been growing for almost 100 years. It literally teems with life of all shapes and sizes.
The wildlife is exactly what draws scientific researchers to the area. Maria Svensson (right) graduated from the University of Southern California at Berkeley and is in Panama on a program from the University of Missouri at Saint Louis, and is working on her PhD. Brianne Addison (left) has been in Panama for about three months and is from Vancouver British Columbia. Both are studying bird malaria with the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute.
The STRI has their Tropical Outdoor Laboratory at Gamboa as well as several other facilities. The surrounding jungle offers amazing opportunities for research.
The "Titan" is a floating crane that was built by Hitler's Germany and claimed by the United States as war booty. The Titan entered service in Panama in 1999 after having served for 50 years in Long Beach California. The crane can be floated into the locks of the Panama Canal and is used for the heavy lifting required to maintain the doors of the locks of the canal. It can lift 350 metric tons and is one of the "strongest" cranes in the world.
The canal side of Gamboa has a very "industrial" feeling. It's the home of the Panama Canal Authority (ACP) Dredging, Signaling, and Towing division. The train tracks of the Kansas City Southern line pass right in front of the gate, and you can watch long trains pulling double-stacked containers from one side of the country to the other.
Ok, no cheating. Camoflage works well for some critters. Check out the picture below. Can you see him?
Maybe this will help...
Given a steady diet of tropical rainfall and bright sunshine, the jungle would quickly reclaim any cleared area, which translates into job security for the local weed-wacking "ninjas". Even in the tropical mid-day heat they cover themselves from head to toe for protection against flying materials and the things they can find in the grass.
There are several "US style" parks in Gamboa for the kids to romp...
Gamboa is also the home of the world-famous Pipeline Road which is a mecca for birdwatchers. You can creep along and spot more varieties of birds here than practically anywhere else in the world. This sign tells you that Panamanians pay $1.00 to get in and foreigners pay $3.00 for access, but there was no one around to collect.
A sure sign of what's important - This sign announces that the office of the President of the Republic, through the National Council on Sustainable Development and under the supervision of the Social Investment Fund is spending $171,077.55 to rehabilitate the pipeline road. This tourist attraction, which is little-known outside of serious birdwatching circles, provides excellent access to virgin jungle at the end of a good paved road within easy distance from Panama City. They are spending money on it because the country will get a return on their investment through increased tourism and visitation.
If you get the chance, Gamboa is worth a visit. Hope you liked the pictures.
